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    Frequently Asked Questions

    No, because it actively vented systems, the fan creates a negative air pressure flow, which draws air into the WCT (waterless composting system), and vents out through a pipe above the building. This active venting actually vents out the entire toilet/bathroom area and makes the systems smell less than a conventional flushing toilet, as the water in a flushing toilet pan actually blocks this process.

    Yes, you can wipe your toilet down with disinfectant at the seating area, however, pouring any chlorine or chemical agents into the chute will kill your friendly microbes doing all the hard work for you in the tank. Use green-friendly products always when cleaning composting toilets.

    It is safe to do:

    You can pour water into the following Waterless Composting Toilet's

    • Clivus Multrum, won’t mind at all in fact over the summer it can help if the system is getting dry
    • EcoLet, you may have to adjust the thermostat slightly, to balance the extra liquid
    • Sun-Mar, depending on whether it is a WET-WCT-Toilet Fixture composting system or DRY-WCT-Toilet Fixture composting system. Sun-Mars should not need extra water at any point and should only be added when maintained
    • Nature Loo, won’t mind at all in fact over the summer it can help if the system is getting dry
    • Bambooloo, only at the end of the bucket use (full bucket) adding water is ideal

    You can use approved cleaning products, the...

    • Nature Flush general-purpose cleaner by Ecoflo
    • Ecostore products are mostly septic-safe and readily available throughout NZ

    Try to keep the soap content down in any water added or wash-down water into a composting system low, as all soaps will affect the composting process regardless of its base constituents been natural or not.

    Regular loo paper will compost as good as any, the bleach in the paper doesn’t have enough concentration to hurt the microbes.

    We do suggest looking at

    Note, things not to add to your composting toilet systems!

    • Wet wipes
    • Sanitary pads or tampons unless 100% organic-based
    • Nappies
    • Food Scraps
    • Cigarette butts or ash from a fireplace
    • Cleaning water eg. mop water
    • No inorganics in general

    With the slip-system (below-floor) WCT type you have a pedestal (toilet fixture) on-floor at a height of 420mm and combined with the chute, it gets too dark to see anything in natural lighting. It should be noted any light shining directly down this pedestal such as an overhead light can illuminate the compost mass at the bottom of the system.

    With the self-contained (on-floor) WCT type you can see into the system depending on the WCT system with or without chamber screens.

    There are dual-action and single-action chamber screens.

    • Dual-action chamber screens are mostly on the high-end WCT systems and allow for a simple stand and pee for men when the lid & seat is lifted
    • Single-action chamber screens are mostly on the cheaper WCT systems or when urine diversion is used where sitting to pee is necessary

    e.g. The EcoLet™ has automatically opening flaps (chamber screen) which part when you sit on the seat, so you don’t see into the toilet.

    Note; WCT systems such as the Sun-Mar do not have chamber screens as the compost mass is always greater than 150mm away from the WCT (toilet) user.

    All our Composting systems bar the Bambooloo & CM2 are fully certified against the Aust/NZ Standards (AS/NZS 1546.2:2008) for Waterless Toilets, therefore there is no problem with how the unit works as far as legalities are concerned. District & Regional councils are the regulating bodies for on-site waste treatment, and will not generally permit on-site domestic wastewater treatment systems if you are already, or can be, connected to their centralised sewer system (urban areas mostly) unless under special circumstance, which will then be on the basis of a one-off submission. This is known as the must-be-connected clause but it does not rule out the use of an on-site wastewater treatment system especially if there is land available for the effluent discharge (subject to rules) or a zero discharge system like a waterless composting toilet. Where there is this (must-be-connected) requirement the best option is composting toilets used as backup toilets or for additional toilets on-site such as privy or ablution-block.

    Where septic systems are acceptable, so too can a waterless composting toilet be applied. If you are building or renovating, and you are required to submit documents to the council for permission (consent), which would include your waste treatment plans done by our on-site wastewater engineer or yourself if confidant.
    We are happy to supply you with any WCT system supporting documents the council may need for your application. Otherwise, most product listing has these documents under attachments for download.
    You will need to go through a checklist of requirements before you embark on this journey.
    Please see this step-by-step list by (LINK)

    To better understand on-site wastewater systems and there the corresponding issues read from the ministry for the environment website (What Is the Problem?) (LINK)

    Most of our customers are home-builders (private) installing our systems

    Refer to the product brochures for more details of installation pre-requisites.

    WCTNZ™ Still would prefer to see trade professional installations for the safety of the users and the reliability of the system. Talk to one of our Preferred Plumbers now (List, coming soon...)

    Clivus Multrum™

    With some basic plumbing and building skills, the Clivus Multrum can be installed and there are few installation requirements in an ideal scenario (i.e., space under the floor is there already, or is being built especially). Clivus Multrum CM8 to 40 units need minimal maintenance every 12-18 months the finished compost is removed from the bottom chamber, and every 4- 6 months, the pile will need to be raked (rake provided) to flatten the compost.

    Installation Guide | Installing A Clivus Multrum Composting Toilet System


    The EcoLet™ are simply plugged into 240v and a pipe hole is cut in the wall or ceiling where the vent is inserted to the outside. The maintenance will vary heavily on usage – 2-8 weeks may see you emptying the humus tray which needs to be finished in a compost bin onsite.

    Installation Guide | Installing A Ecolet™ Composting Toilet System

    Nature Loo™

    Coming soon...


    Coming soon...

    No, compost is constantly shrinking from the middle, by up to 90%, therefore, the amount of compost in the finishing chamber is only a fraction of the humanure and bulking material that has been put in there.

    Annual production of Compost solids will be around 3-6 bucket loads for a family.

    The brochures outline the capacity and estimated usage for each size and model of both systems. If you need help in scaling usage, just contact us, and we are happy to calculate this for you.

    No, they are not. A long drop is an anaerobic decomposition method, which is extremely wet and slow, and as the microbes involved in this process produce methane, ethane and sulphur gases, the smell is less than unpleasant. Because of this slow decomposition, the long drop has a pollution field of approx. 15 metres radius from the initial hole in the ground, and has the potential of seeping into underground waterways.

    A composting toilet is aerobically decomposing, meaning it is quite dry, and the microbes release gases such as oxygen and carbon dioxide, the smell is far less putrid, and the polluting effects of these gases are significantly smaller. They also yield a dividend-rich, soil-like compost, ready to go on the garden.

    Absolutely, in the case of the Clivus systems – by the time there is compost ready to be collected, the matter has been effectively decomposed and aged appropriately for any pharmaceuticals or human viruses to have been absorbed and eaten up in the process. It is the sheer microbial competition that destroys any human pathogens and microbes in composting humanure. Viruses cannot exist outside of the human body for more than 48hours anyway. The composting process actually condenses colloidal heavy metals (ie from pharmaceutical drugs), meaning that when the soil is spread on the ground, any heavy metal remaining is not only well below toxic levels but are in a bound state, too heavy for a plant to reabsorb in their tiny feeding roots.

    Once the humanure compost is in the ground, worms will continue to break it down anyway, further transforming the compost into the soil. In the case of the EcoLet, the humus is safe, certainly as far as human pathogens are concerned, and what comes out after 6-8 weeks in the humus tray looks and smells like compost, but it hasn’t been aged, so it needs to be placed into a compost bin and finished for at least another 6months to a year.

    We don’t actively recommend worms, because they are a higher life form and need more care. The Clivus process is usually too dry for them, and if you are away a lot, the worms will suffer for the lack of feeding. However, if you are into worms, you can simply add more water, and keep the compost wetter for them, and ensure the feeding, and they are certainly a valid addition if you know how to keep them.

    Food scraps again, we don’t actively recommend it, mainly because they can attract flying insects like fruit flies and house flies. However, people have had success if they can keep a good monitor on the tank, and can remove flies and insects by using pyrethrum based insect repellents (not chemical ones). It will certainly require more vigilance and maintenance.

    We generally encourage the use of UNTREATED wood shavings or peat moss or a mixture. It can be soft or hardwood, softwood bark, newsprint shredding, wheat-straw, rice hulls, or even straw, leaves or shredded shrub trimmings. We do not recommend sawdust, as it clumps together too much and can plug the drain hole in the bottom, and food scraps, hay and grass clippings can attract insects and other potentially unwanted pests. The EcoLet™ is strictly run on a 50/50 ratio of untreated wood shavings and peat moss.

    We do not promote any particular grey-water system, as there are many well-established companies that can help you out. By virtue of removing the human ‘waste’ from your greywater, you have opened up other opportunities to recycle your greywater anyway. Talk to your local regional council about their recommendation, or local grey-water consultants, and research on the web. In Joseph C. Jenkins’ book, The Humanure Handbook, he recommends some excellent, natural methods.

    The Clivus system runs virtually on no power (running only a 12v fan), and can be easily run off a small solar panel, or with simply a “whirly-bird” vent system. The EcoLet™ are unsuitable for off-grid situations, as they need 240v to run. There is the non-electric version to consider, however that runs quite different from the other models.

    No, do not put any of these items down any composting toilet. They do not break down and pose a sanitary problem when handling your compost. If you are interested in alternative sanitary devices, I can highly recommend They are available in NZ.

    The Clivus Multrum is a continuous composting chamber, as new material is added to the top of the pile, finished compost is removed from the bottom of the pile when appropriate. The Clivus requires virtually no power and has a much greater capacity, with less maintenance. The EcoLet™ is a batch composter – it uses a small chamber that needs emptying, and requires a restart of the process after each emptying.

    It has a smaller capacity and must be connected to a 240v (not off-grid) power system to run, and the humus needs to be finished in a compost bin on site, dug under the ground, or put a worm farm to finish.

    No, as the EcoLet™ need 240v power to operate, this will generally exclude most motorhomes. These toilets were not designed with this use in mind and must be permanently sited for operational efficiency.

    No, all bacteria needed to begin the process of decomposition, are already there, granted that the right conditions are present (ie a good carbon/nitrogen balance – or in this context, humanure and wood shavings)The bacteria exist in the bulking material, and within our own digestive tract. If you encounter a problem, where someone has accidentally killed the microbes in your unit, we can provide a “starting bacteria” mix to boost the compost pile back into action.

    If you have further questions, comments or queries, please contact us.